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Sheru: The unlikely trekking companion on the Panchase Trail

In the heart of the Himalayas, where every step brings you closer to nature’s wonders, we embarked on a trek to Panchase—a place known for its serene forests and breathtaking views. Little did we know that this journey would introduce us to an unlikely companion, Sheru, a stray dog who became the guardian and guide of our journey.

Our journey began in the early morning from Pokhara, taking a bus to Kande, the starting point of our expedition. Hungry and excited, we stopped at a small hotel for breakfast. That’s where we first met Sheru. She was hanging around the hotel, but there was something about her that caught our attention. After a while, she cautiously approached us, and we instantly became friends.

We never asked Sheru to join us on our trek. In fact, we thought she would follow us only for a short while. But as we started our expedition, Sheru seemed to decide that she was now part of our group. She followed us quietly, keeping pace with us and sometimes leading the way as if she knew the trail by heart.

By 8 am, we had set off from Kande. The trail took us through mesmerising rhododendron forests, villages, and paths filled with the chirping of birds. Around 11:30 am, we reached Bhadaure village, where the local homestay community welcomed us warmly. Sheru was right there with us, blending in as if she belonged to our team from the start.

Bhadaure Village

Throughout the trek, Sheru was more than just a follower; she became a source of motivation. Whenever we paused to rest, she waited patiently, her presence somehow urging us to keep going. We shared our food with her, and in return, she gave us companionship and a sense of safety in the wilderness.

After Bhadaure, we came across ‘3 Dhara,’ a spot with natural spring water where we refilled our bottles. From here, the trail split into two—one path led to Panchase Peak, and the other to Panchase Lake. Due to a mix-up, our group got separated, with one half heading towards the peak and the other towards the lake. With no network to communicate and growing confusion, it was Sheru who brought us back together, guiding us through the jungle paths.

As we reunited and continued towards Panchase Lake, Sheru stayed by our side. The lake, enveloped in a blanket of rhododendrons, was a peaceful sanctuary, like stars twinkling in the sky. We rested and soaked in the tranquillity, rejuvenated by the beauty around us.

Panchase lake

Our plan was to reach Sidane before nightfall, and as we began our descent, the sun started to set. Sheru seemed more excited than ever, leading us through the protected forests of Panchase, known for its rich biodiversity, including various orchid species.

She guided us to Sidane, where the homestay awaited us with a warm welcome and a cup of tea. We spent the evening around a campfire, preparing sekuwa and reflecting on the day’s trek. Despite walking 20 kilometres, we were filled with a sense of accomplishment, and Sheru had been a catalyst in making this journey memorable

The next day, we set out early from Sidane, determined to cover the remaining 20 kilometres to Pokhara. After a breakfast of selroti and chiya at the homestay, we began our trek. Once again, Sheru was our guide, leading us through beautiful Gurung villages, across suspension bridges, past waterfalls, and through orchid forests. The beauty of the trail was matched by the serenity of the surrounding nature, and Sheru’s presence made it even more special.

Ghatchina and traditional house

The village of Gatichina, a rest stop on the way, offered a refreshing break. With its scenic waterfall, it was the perfect place to catch our breath. As we continued, the stone-paved Gurung villages felt like stepping back in time, each turn revealing more of Nepal’s natural and cultural heritage.

Finally, we reached Pame, the endpoint of our trek and the place where we had to part ways with Sheru. Saying goodbye was difficult. Sheru had been more than just a stray dog; she was our protector, guide, and friend. It felt like a mutual relationship, where we looked out for each other. Her companionship had turned an ordinary trek into an extraordinary journey, leaving us with memories that would last a lifetime.

Sheru’s story is a representation of the many stray dogs that accompany trekkers in Nepal. They guide, motivate, and even protect us, adding an unexpected layer of joy to the adventure. These silent companions leave paw prints not just on the trails but on our hearts as well.

Sheru’s story is a reminder of the unseen guardians that make our trekking experiences more memorable. These stray dogs might be nameless and voiceless, but their impact is profound, guiding us through the trails and leaving behind stories of companionship and mutual respect.

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Pandey is a writer.

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